The next day I rode 61 miles to Franklinton, which was my furthest to date. Team Houston had established that there were some accommodation options there and so I ploughed on – it was a bit further than I had expected though. I went straight out to get food and the best option nearby was a Cajun seafood drive-thru – I got in line on my bike behind the cars. An odd sight, I am sure, but nobody passed comment, smiling politely, at what I can only assume they perceived as an eccentric or just plain strange English woman....

Terrain for last few days has been like riding and endless series of camel humps. I find it depressing as I get to the top of a "hump" only to be greeted by the sight of a short descent to just be followed by another climb... Haven't gotten off the bike to push yet though...

One of the lesser joys of riding a bike are definitely the dogs that, completely unbothered by endless traffic, go completely beserk at the sight of a lonesome cyclist. Never sure if they will actually bite or not, I pedal as fast as possible – which, in my case, at the end of yet another climb, is not too fast. I have been chased across the road into oncoming traffic (but fortunately on quiet roads)... but not actually bitten yet. Most lose interest once you pass their territory.

Anyhow, after a breakfast comprised of whatever (aka junk food) was available at the nearest gas station, I headed off towards Poplarville in Mississippi, seemingly home of the blueberry. Yet more camel humps; I spent the day wishing for flat terrain. On a bike I could easily become an "anorak" about road surfaces, weather, maps and dogs... All of which can make the difference between an OK ride and a nightmare... Road surface and traffic was my bug bear to Poplarville. No hard shoulder and very bumpy terrain. Accommodation was also a concern – my map indicated that this was a "full-service" town, but Team Houston was struggling to find accommodation; I kept getting differing reports from locals too, but eventually was told that there was a B&B in town but not sure where... That turned out to be full due to a funeral but fortunately found an alternative, which was a self-contained cabin in someone's back yard.... I was relieved as nearest town was 20 miles away.... Supper was nuts and a lollipop, which was a freebie from the motel in Baton Rouge... 5*? - I think not...

Then, after breakfast at a local diner, I headed south towards the Gulf Coast. After a long day – 61 miles again – I reached Biloxi where casino hotels were readily available... Food, entertainment and rodent-free all in the same place – I checked in! I gorged on vegetables – ate about 1lb of broccoli with my dinner and had asparagus for breakfast. Also managed to win a small amount again at blackjack... Heading for a fall, I know, but it was fun...

First view of the Gulf Coast in Biloxi

I then I had a choice of a route via Mobile or via Dauphin Island – I opted for the latter as the roads looked quieter and more bike friendly. However, Team Houston realised it was Spring Break and needed to check on accommodation – they booked me into one of the last few rooms at the motel on Dauphin Island. My only problem was that I was cycling off-route
part of the time and the distances on my maps were incomplete – it turned out to be 64 miles to get there. Not that it was free of excitement though – I passed thru Bayou La Batre, which is apparently where Bubba in the movie Forrest Gump was meant to hail from.

However, after a long day the day before, I was cramping up and very tired by the time I reached Dauplin Island.. The last bridge defeated me and I finally got off the bike and pushed it up the bridge – which, on the approach, looked like something a roller coaster would be proud to climb... Team Houston had provided me with info on local restaurants too, but it was gone 7 when I arrived (most stop serving at 8) and I was not fit to leave the motel... So a beer and cashew nuts were supper for that day...

Leaving Dauphin Island by ferry

Today was meant to be a day off but, due to my detour to Baton Rouge to have the bike repaired, I was about 30 miles behind.... So I opted to do a half-day and get to Orange Beach, Alabama, to put me back on schedule. I took the ferry this morning from Dauphin Island (not cheating as such as it forms part of the Southern Tier cycle route across the USA) and then cycled to Orange Beach – Team Houston had reserved the last room in one of the beach motels, which were of course all busy as it is Spring Break. The rest of my non-cycling day was non-stop excitement with a short walk on the
beach, doing my laundry, and then dinner and a movie. I forced myself down to the Wharf in search of good food but also to avoid seeing each local environment from the inside of a motel room...

View of the sea from Orange Beach motel

Well, if everything goes according to plan, I should reach Florida tomorrow...